Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Here comes the lady with the alligator purse.

A few weeks ago, my mother and I went to a vintage textile show and I came away with two amazing scores. The first is a vintage handbag with *gasp* a real alligator! The only flaw is an easily fixed strap, and it'll be ready to wear.

The second is a pair of vintage frames. My mother plonked these on my face and I've loved them ever since!


Next time: a new challenge!

Monday, April 7, 2014

HSF '13 #7: A Not-Quite-Easter Bonnet.

Well, spring has sprung, Mr. G has survived the opening weekend of Faire, and this fortnight's theme is Tops and Toes, a challenge after my own heart! Not only did I get to make a tall hat to go with my later 1880's gear, but I actually have construction pictures!


I found this old straw hat in the garage and separated the crown from the brim, leaving a little lip so that the modified crown could be sewn back on. 

I made a base for the new crown out of sinamay and started unraveling the crown. After ripping a few rows off it, I left the brim in a sink full of hot water for an hour or two.

While the brim was soaking, I sewed the braid of the crown to the sinamay base. I then reattached the brim, and pinned it into shape overnight. Add some ribbon and flowers, and voila! Instant hat!



  • Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 thedreamstress.com

The Challenge: Tops and Toes
Fabric: Um, sinamay?
Pattern: Nope
Year: 1880's
Notions: Thread, ribbon, and flowers
How historically accurate is it? Completely hand sewn
Hours to complete: About a day and a half
First worn: Not yet
Total cost: Free

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

HSF '14 #6: One dancing princess, worn out shoes sold separately.

 This fortnight's challenge is fairytale. One of my favorite stories growing up was the Twelve Dancing Princesses, and since most of the costumes I make get worn to balls, I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to make a bodice for the Pink Eugenie skirt


I had a little better lighting than the last time I tried to photograph this dress, so the color is much closer to real life. I have more of this pink silk, and I might make a day bodice to go with it.


And Esca, adding the finishing touches

  • Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 thedreamstress.com
With each post or photo be sure to give your item a name/title and tell us:
The Challenge: Fairytale
Fabric: Pink silk dupioni
Pattern: Original
Year: 1850's
Notions: Thread, embroidered lace
How historically accurate is it? Machine sewn
Hours to complete: Half a week
First worn: Not yet
Total cost: Free

Saturday, March 15, 2014

HSF '14 Challenge #5: Bodice

Greetings one and all from the great state of Washington! In typical fashion, I have no pictures yet, but for now I'm hanging out with my sister and getting licked to death by her extremely affectionate dog.

 A while ago I made myself a bustle dress to wear to a Victorian picnic, and it's become my default ensemble for all such events. I never really liked the original bodice, so this challenge was the perfect excuse to make a new one.
 The pattern is a combination of Truly Victorian patterns 422 and 463, and made of spotted cotton voile. I found the trim pre-pleated at Jo-ann fabrics and accented it with a little blue ribbon. The corsage is for another project.





  • Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 thedreamstress.com

The Challenge: Bodice
Fabric: Cotton voile
Pattern: Truly Victorian 422 and 463
Year: 1880's
Notions: Thread, ruffled trim, blue satin ribbon
How historically accurate is it? Both machine and hand sewn
Hours to complete: I wasn't keeping track
First worn: not yet
Total cost: $15

Sunday, February 16, 2014

HSF '14 challenge #3: Pink or, chasing the blues away

I adore the color pink, it's right up there with stripes on my list of favorite things to wear. So when this challenge was announced, I was thrilled! 
The skirt is made of a lovely coral pink silk with a sky blue weft. I'm afraid the photos don't do it justice, as I was shooting at night, and with rather poor lighting makes it look almost orange.

Here's the original. Nearly a year ago, I'd made an 1850's ballgown out of vivid blue silk inspired by one of the dresses in the Eugenie Project. But when I'd finished it, I found the color combo didn't suit me much at all, and so the Blue Eugenie became the Pink Eugenie. 

The trim around the top flounce is from Gilding the Lily in Fullerton and the lace is from Cheep Trims.


  • Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 thedreamstress.com

The Challenge:  Pink
Fabric:  Silk Dupioni
Pattern:  Nope
Year:  1855
Notions:  Thread, Lace
How historically accurate is it?  The lace is synthetic
Hours to complete:  20
First worn:  Not yet
Total cost: Raided my fabric stash, so free.

I probably won't make anything for challenge #4 as I will be venturing into the great northern wilds of Washington State to visit my sister. 

Friday, January 31, 2014

HSF '14 challenge #2 Innovations


This challenge, like the last, coincides with my reenactment group's Hogmanay celebration, the theme of which is "mad for plaid" and my mother has an 1830's gown made of plaid taffeta that she plans to wear. Mom wears her hair in a very short bob and while she can wear a cap and bonnet for daytime events, styling her hair for evening events is a little problematic. With this in mind, I decided to sew her a turban to match her dress.


I was inspired by these examples after reading Lynn McMasters' article and used her wonderful tutorial.  Since the turban is sewn to a band, my mother will be able to slip it quickly and easily on to her head without having to wrap it.




  • Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 thedreamstress.com

The Challenge:  Innovations
Fabric:  Plaid taffeta
Pattern:   Um, not really...
Year:   1830's
Notions:  Thread, buckram, millinery wire and an ostrich feather
How historically accurate is it?  Sewn by hand
Hours to complete:   Half a week
First worn:   will be worn on February 1st.
Total cost:   $0

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

HSF '14 challenge #1: Make do and mend, or, closet archaeology.

My biggest stumbling block with last year's sewing challenge was that most of the themes didn't correspond with the events that I had to sew for. But now that I have a comfortable cushion of costuming to fall back on if an event should arise, I have high hopes for this round of HSF.
My reenactment group hosts an annual Hogmanay celebration and the theme this year is "mad for plaid". A friend and fellow reenactresses needed a dress to wear and so I dug deep into my closet and brought out the Easter egg ballgown.

Oh this dress! Made in the days of my sewing infancy, (when I was just discovering other time periods than the 16th century, before I realized that a hoop skirt needed petticoats over it, before I'd learned to read instructions all the way through...) I'm surprised that this turned out as well as this did, but after wearing it to two events and going up two cup sizes, it got consigned to the back of my closet.


I removed the back placket and added a smaller lace ruffle to the neck


And a velvet bow to the back


I'm glad this one will be getting some use at last. I haven't the faintest hope that I will ever wear it again, but I just can't bear to pick it apart and make something new.

  • Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 thedreamstress.com

The Challenge:  Make do and Mend
Fabric:  Silk dupioni
Pattern:   A much-altered Truly victorian 1860's pattern
Year:   1860's
Notions:  Thread, lace and velvet ribbon
How historically accurate is it?  Probably not very
Hours to complete:   About a day
First worn:   In it's current incarnation, February 1st
Total cost:   Free